Prowein, Day 2, Part 2

 The few other Italian wines I tasted could not match the Barolos from earlier on. The 2021 Cepparello by Isole e Olena had beautiful kirsch flavours and decent length on the palate, but was not outstanding. The 2019 Frescobali Castelgiocondo Brunello, from this acclaimed vintage, included nice mocca flavours and good intensity with firm dry tannins, but again, not outstanding. The 2020 Luce Brunello was lighter in the mouth, but quite tannic.

Of these other wines, I preferred the Fontodi wines. The 2021 Vigna del Sorbo was elegant, with good depth and some interesting herbal notes, while otherwise quite ripe. The 2021 Flaccianello delivered typical mocca flavours with good intensity and drive.

Then it was time to go to the Spanish pavilion. First stop was Capellanes from Ribera del Duero. The wines were a mixed experience. I found the 2021 Reserva oaky, a bit rough and alcoholic. My preference was for the 2021 Un Sueno, from vineyards at 1100m altitude. This Tempranillo was very dark, with great fruit purity and elegance. The 2020 Picon is a big wine, full-bodied and oaky.

The second winery from Ribera del Duero was Cepa 21. The 2022 Malabrigo, grown on rocky soil, was fresh and complex, with the finish a bit unbalanced. I also tasted the low yielding 2020 Hortago.

Unfortunately, I only managed to taste two wines from Muga, the Rioja superstar.. The 2016 Prado Enea Gran Reserva was dark, with a good fruit profile, and the noticeable oak well integrated. I preferred the 2021 Muga Torre. The wine comes from 40-90 year old vines. It is a concentrated Tempranillo, built out in French oak, with an elegant mouthfeel. It gives this deceiving lightness impression, which I feel only old vines can do - excellent.

I could not find the Louis Sebra wines when tasting wines from Portugal, but I found the wines this afternoon, tucked away behind others. Luis Sebra was there himself. These Douro wines are different from most, not coming out of a Port tradition. My word for the 2022 Albariño Granito Cru Vinho Verde; simply exuberant. The 2022 Xisto Cru Branco is a high altitude wine from schist and granite, with many varieties. This citrus flavoured wine is similar to the very good Niepoort whites. The first red was the 2022 Mono C Castelão. This is a very different wine from the full-bodied typical Douro red. This wine, from the Castelão variety, is very light on its feet, matured in concrete, quite easy drinking, a bit like an easy drinking Grenache. The 2022 Xisto Cru Red comes from high altitude vineyards. It delivers more traditional flavours, and is complex on the palate. The 2022 Mono A is a single varietal wine from Dão. It is floral and quite light. Overall, this was an interesting and different set of wines from one of Portugal’s most innovative winemakers.

What a day!

ProWein, Day2, Part 1

 Today started with a tasting of a few selected German Rieslings, followed by Piedmont reds.

The first stop was at Schloß Johannisberg, perhaps Germany’s most famous winery. They are mainly known for off-dry and sweeter Rieslings, but I wanted to try the dry Rieslings. The wines are distinguished by the colour of the caps. First up is the 2023 Bronze Riesling. The citrus flavour is nice, but the wine lacks concentration. The 2022 Silver Riesling is better. It has a satisfying fuller mouthfeel of citrus flavours. I then tried the same wine from 2015. This wine was still fresh, quite elegant, with added complexity- the pick of the three.

Then it was over to Robert Weil, my favourite Riesling producer from the Rheingau. The two key wines are the Klosterberg and the GG Turmberg. Both were available from 2024, and clearly a bit young. The Klosterberg is a bit fruity at the moment, whereas the Turmberg already showed its steeliness on the palate, minerality on the finish, and great length.

Finally, for a different expression, a tasting at Reichsrath von Buhl from the Pfalz. The 2022 Ungeheuer, grown on slate, is excellent. It is quite full bodied, as you would expect from a Pfalz wine of this year, but slaty minerality is shining through on the very long finish. The 2022 Pechstein, from black volcanic rock is quite different. This wine is extra dry and salty - quite interesting and good.

Now over to the Italian pavilion, where I happen to start at Vietti, which turns out to be the ProWein highlight. I start with the 2022 Nebbiolo Perbacco. This wine has set the standard for Langhe Nebbiolo in the last few years. And the 2022 does not disappoint. The wine is dry and quite elegant. Perhaps it does not reach the hights of 2019 or 2021, but it is still a top choice for Langhe Nebbiolo. I then tasted one Barbaresco and 7(!) Barolos from the 2021 vintage. The Barbaresco Roncagle is a beautiful wine. It is elegance over power, and a great example of Barbaresco at its finest.

When it comes to the Barolos, where to begin? The blended Barolo was quite attractive. It is quite a dry wine, with excellent definition. It appears a bit reserved and lean now, but the purity of fruit, the balanced structure and the firm tannins are there for this to develop into an excellent wine. The standard of the single vineyard wines was outstanding. It comes down to preference. Mine was the Cerequio from La Morra, and the Lazaretto from Serralunga, both amazing wines. The former stood out for its freshness, minerality, and energy. The latter impressed with its bigger mouthfeel, reflecting limestone drive and iron soil fullness, while retaining elegance all the same - the power and the beauty. Then comes the Rocche di Castiglione with typical dark fruit and a very long finish. The Ravera has a complex palate with some meat character coming through. The Monvigliero from the north includes 60% wholebunch, and showed a little broader in the mouth. The only one which did not impress me that much was the Brunate, which I found a bit blocky. Overall, these wines combine excellent fruit clarity, drive, expression of their terroir, power, balance, and elegance. The Lazaretto is close to perfection. The only drawback: pricing has gone quite stratospheric. If that is a problem, and it would be for most of us, enjoy yourself with the Perbacco.

It would be very hard for the other two Piedmont wineries I tasted from to match this, and they could not. G.D. Vajra has a decent profile, but the 2021 Barolos were not in Vietti’s league. Albe, Coste di Rose, and Bricco delle Viche were fruity and less complex.The exception was the Ravera, which was more concentrated, elegant, and long. This is a wine in the top tier. I also tasted the Serralunga Barolo from their second winery, Luigi Baudana. This was a more concentrated wine, but not overly complex.

I finally tasted an interesting set of wines from Oddero. The 2021 Langhe Nebbiolo from 40 year old vines in La Morra was fresh, with good fruit purity and elegance - a find. The 2022 Barbaresco Gallina, grown on sandy soil, is quite light and soft, with a silky mouthfeel. I enjoyed this. I was less impressed with the 21 Barolo from two vineyards in La Morra and one in Costello. It came up a bit short. The 2019 Bussia Reserva, from a good area of this very large vineyard, was more impressive. The fruit is quite concentrated, and the wine powerful, while retaining elegance - just not quite in the Vietti league.

Phew! This was only part one of day two.

Prowein, Day 1, Part 2

 The afternoon involved tastings of Portuguese and US wines. 

I started with my favourite Portuguese winery, Quinta do Crasto from the Douro river. First came the individual variety wines, the Touriga Nacional, the 2019 Touriga Franca, which was a strong, muscular and complex wine, and the 2018 Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), a big red fruited wine, which was elegant, with a long finish, and my favourite of these three. I then had an opportunity to taste the quite rare field blend wines from vineyards 100 years plus old. The 2019 Maria Theresa was not as big as the single variety wines, but more refined, elegant and very balanced, with silky tannins. This wine was excellent. The 2019 Vina Porte was darker and stronger, with a lot of drive and firm tannins, also a very good wine.

The wines from Quinta do Vallado were also very interesting. The Lady Baga is an interesting wine, unusual and quite rare  for the Douro. It is a lighter wine, and very elegant. Then I tasted the two field blends for the first time. The 2022 Vinha de Curoa comes from a north facing high altitude vineyard. It is a full-bodied wine, but a bit undifferentiated. The 2022 Vinha de Granja comes from a south facing vineyard. It is also a big wine, but quite elegant, with a long finish. The wine has a slightly sweet core.

The third winery was Niepoort. In the past, I have been very impressed with their white wines, which come from high altitude vineyards in the Douro. The 2023 Redoma comes from 80 year old vines. I found it a bit broad. The 2023 Coche was a more interesting wine. The vines are grown on schist. The wine shows tropical fruit. It is elegant with a refreshing finish. The 23 Tiara from granite soil was quite different; very clean and precise. The VV Bairrada was interesting. It underwent 100% malolactic fermentation, and still it was quite acidic. The 2016 Lomba from Dão had an unusual flavour. It was still fresh, and had a mineral character, while a bit reductive at the same time. It was time for a couple of reds. The 2023 Charme has very little skin contact and is fermented with 100% whole bunch. I like the elegance, shall I say charme, in this wine. The 2021 Vinha du Carril is very good and expensive. Kirsch flavours dominate in this darker wine. It is not as big as the equivalent wines from the other producers. It is understated, yet quite complex.

This was an excellent set of very interesting wines from Portugal. Portugal has come a long way.

There has been a lot of discussion in California of producing less ripe wines, with drinkability the main objective. Yet this was not at all obvious from the wines I tasted. Wines from DuMol, Clos du Val and Merryvale were big, ripe, and sugary. The 2022 Merlot from Duckhorn, a simpler wine, at least showed some acidity. The best wines came from the legendary Ridge Winery. The 2022 Cabernet was very pure and quite elegant. The highlight was the 2022 Monte Bello. This wine is way too early to drink with its firm tannins, but underneath was a well balanced, complex fruit profile.

A fascinating first day has come to an end.

ProWein, Day 1, Part 1

 I am sorry about the delay in posting. There was a period when I did not taste any interesting wines, and then I tasted at ProWein, the largest wine fair in the world with about 5000 exhibitors in more than ten large halls. It is an annual event at Düsseldorf, Germany. One can only scratch the surface in this three day event, and I was too tired to post during these days. In order to cover at least some ground, I had to move quickly and did not take detailed notes. So the following posts reflect only summary observations.

In the morning of the first day I tasted Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) from Germany. This is perhaps the most significant development in the wine world right now. It is driven by two factors: climate change and the replacement of German clones with French clones. German clones used to be focussing on yield and are generally not well suited to high quality wines. This replacement has been going on for some time and is now bearing fruit (pun unintended). These developments are significant, because we now have wines of Burgundy quality at a fraction of the price.

Most wines were from the warm 2022 vintage. Not surprisingly then, the most impressive Spätburgunder came from more northerly regions in Germany. GG (grosses Gewächs) wines from the Ahr featured prominantly, in particular Sonnenberg from Meyer-Näckel, Silberberg and other GGs from Kreuzberg, and Herrenberg from Jean Stodden. These wines had good fruit concentration and a lot of energy and drive. Equaly impressive was the 2021 Braunberger Klostergarten from highly regarded Markus Molitor, a complex wine reflecting the slate based terroir.

In contrast, the wines from the more tradional areas associated with Spätburgunder, Baden and Pfalz, had a broader profile in the mouth. The Hölle wine from Thörle, with perhaps the highest profile, was a bit simpler, but with an attractive minerality. 

From the South, I was impressed with the Steinkaul of Fürst and the Steinhalde of Knab, both from 2018.

Jean-Marc Burgaud Beaujolais

 Gamay used to be the most planted red variety in Burgundy. Now it is Pinot Noir, of course. And the success of Beaujolais Nouveau made Beaujolais a popular drink, but rendered Gamay as a not serious, early to drink variety. For quite a number of years, some Gamay producers have staged a comeback. Probably the most serious of these wines come from the subregion of Morgon, and the hill of Côte du Py is the core. So how does the 2021 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Côte du Py stack up? 

This is quite a concentrated wine, with good fruit weight. Red and black cherry flavours deliver quite a fruity profile on the front palate.Then herbal notes come on strong and add a savoury profile. The structure is backed up by firm tannins. This is clearly a wine which can age for 5-8 years.

Score: 93/++

Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon

                                                          The slightly modernized label

2018 was a relatively mild vintage in Margaret River with a long ripening period. So what is going on with this 2018 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon? It has the usual dark colour, and is black fruited. The wine is very concentrated and ripe, but the soft mulberry flavours are missing; the muskiness is missing. This wine lacks charm.

On the plus side, the wine shows cedar and smoky flavours for complexity, and the wine has a long finish. However, it feels a bit hot and alcoholic (14.5%).

I am not sure if one should drink it now or keep. I do not see much potential for improvement.

Score: 92/0
 

Thymiopoulos Earth & Sky

 Xinomavro is an interesting variety, sitting right in trend. It is indigenous to Greece, and expresses itself particularly well in the hilly area of Naousa in Northern Greece. It is often compared to Nebbiolo due to its acidity and tannin structure, but the fruit profile is lighter. I find some similarities with Sicilian varieties. The aromatics have some similarity with Pinot Noir as well.

Thymiopoulos is a major producer of this variety. His portfolio is structured in layers of quality. The Earth & Sky sits at the premium end. Yesterday I tried the 2021 Thymiopoulos Earth & Sky.

The ruby colour of the wine shows medium density. The wine has an appealing rose aroma.

On the palate, red cherry and some herbacious flavours, not green, deliver a bright and lively feel in the mouth. The wine has good concentration and balance. There are smoky notes on the back palate. The acidity shines through, and the finish is medium plus.

This is an interesting and attractive wine, well made and quite serious. This is an ideal drink for the warmer months.

Score: 95/+++  

Château Margaux

 In a recent tasting of high quality French and Australian wines from 2010, one wine shone above the rest; the 2010 Château Margaux.

The wine first impressed with its aromatic and perfumed aromas, so typical of the Margaux subregion. In this case, they were caressing the nose with seamless fragrances.

The main impression is that this is such a complete wine. Nothing sticks out; no acidity, no particular flavour. The mouthfeel is one of intensity and opulence. The wine is elegant and in perfect harmony. It almost detracts to discuss fruit flavours, but if you must, blackcurrant and blueberry would be dominant in this 90% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is very youthful and will go on for decades. The finish is incredibly long and silky. I tasted this wine some years ago, and even as a young wine, it was very harmonious and drinkable. Doing this early in life, and carrying it through for maybe 20-40 years is remarkable.

Score: 100/+++ 

I am acutely aware that a famous label can influence wine notes significantly. I believe I would have given this review to a no label wine.  

Elio Grasso Casa Maté Barolo

 I enjoyed the 2015 Sordo (reviewed below) quite a lot. I thought let's see how this compares with the 2015 Elio Grasso Casa Maté.

Wow! What a wine this is. It is only just getting ready to drink at 10 years. This wine is very tannic, but finely grained. The red cherry fruit is mellowing. Mocca flavours and licorice make the palate quite complex. This wine is piercing through the palate. The finish is ultra long. This wine is not for everybody, but I love this.

Elio Grasso has been one of my favorite producers, even more so since I visited a couple of years ago, and saw the special vineyard area of this estate. The strong focus on two premium Barolos is clearly paying off.

Score: 96/+++

Sordo Rocche Di Castiglione Barolo

 The 2021 Barolos are coming onto the market. While in some countries the latest vintage is always proclaimed the best, the Piedmontese  have a slightly different approach. Of course, the new vintage is always good, but the emphasis is on comparing the vintage with a similar one of the past.

The key features of this vintage were a warm and dry summer. It followed a snow cover in spring, which is better than rain, as rain is drained very quickly in the Barolo soils. As a result many wine makers describe it as delivering wines with good structure and approachable fruit. The comparison is the 2015 vintage.

2015 is regarded as good, but not stellar. In order to have a window in what 2021 might be like, I opened a bottle of the 2015 Sordo Rocche di Castiglione Barolo.

I would say that Sordo is in the second division of Barolo producers, but it has a strong focus on single vineyard wines. The wine opens up with typical rose petal aromas. On the palate, red cherry flavours and tar deliver quite a complex and pleasant mouthfeel. The tannins are well integrated and long. Despite this, this wine is quite smooth. For a ten year old wine it has good energy and is drinking really well now.

So, if 2021 is like this, it would be a buy for me.

Score: 95/+++

Swinney Farvie Syrah

 Normally, I do not like new wines coming onto the market as the next big thing, with a big price tag. However, Swinney has been around for quite some time, the property for 100 years. It has a large high quality vineyard at Frankland River, planted in 1998, and has supplied Margaret River royalty ever since. Highly regarded winemaker Rob Mann came on board in 2018, and the Swinney label was created.

Farvie is the premium label. This 2019 Swinney Farvie Syrah is the second vintage of this wine - and what a triumph it is! The colour is a deep intense purple.

The wine is named Syrah, and what follows is what is expected of a wine with this name - to a degree. Yes, the wine has cool climate characteristics of blueberry and blackberry fruits, black pepper, olive and licorice. At the same time, the wine is very concentrated. Great purity of fruit and a tension in the mouth created by firm, piercing tannins.

The mouthfeel is powerful, but the wine has some elegance as well, and a long finish. This is quite a profound wine. It could rate even higher, if it had a bit more charm.

Score: 96/+++

Peay Ama Pinot Noir

 I quite enjoy US Pinot Noir from time to time. It needs to come from one of the better producers in Sonoma or Willamette Valley. Given the dramatic price increases of premium Australian Pinot Noir (e.g. Bindi, by Farr, Place of Changing Winds), the US wines are not too expensive now. What I enjoy about these wines in comparison to Burgundy is the somewhat dialed-up fruit flavours, as long as the structure is still good. 

I was looking forward to this 2019 Peay Ama Pinot Noir, given I liked the 'standard' blended Pinot Noir quite a lot. This wine comes from the West Sonoma Coast, the new hot bed of Pinot Noir in the US, as the ocean and frequent frog provide cooler temperatures and humidity as well. The owners are quite meticulous, splitting the vineyards in 25 blocks, and also growing a number of different clones.

However, what often happens, the best, i.e. ripest grapes are reserved for the single vineyard wine, whereas the rest goes into the blended wine. In this case, the wine is more concentrated, but also quite fruity and ripe. The red cherry and strawberry flavours are nice, but the overall mouthfeel is a bit flabby. The wine is not very acidic. The tannins are silky, but very light.

Score: 90/-